In which your narrator gets down to cases in the quest to
design and build a more or less printable stepper motor...
Back in July I started a
project to build a tin can linear stepper motor for my next generation
Reprap machine, Tommelise 3.0. Before I went on to other projects I established
that it ought to be technically feasable. I had two motives for wanting to do
this
to increase the percentage of a Reprap machine that it could
build
to get around the pig-headedness of the Chinese engineers who were refusing to sell me lead screws for their very inexpensive (~$2.50) linear stepper motors
in the lengths I needed
I bought the original linear stepper motors for Tommelise 2.0 from Haydon.
While their product massively simplifies the design and construction of accurate
positioning robots, their pricing structure obviously factors that ease in to
the point where a Haydon linear stepper and lead screw costs about $80/axis. The
Chinese were much more attractive, pricewise. Unfortunately, they had had some
customer complaints about the tendency of their small diameter lead screws to
bend under load. While I tried to explain that I wasn't using their linear
steppers to anything like their design loads, they still flatly refused to sell
me the lead screws in the 12-18 inch lengths that I
needed.
Having lived in China and liking the Chinese people immensely, I was altogether shocked and finally angered at this situation. In the months since
July this annoyance began to inform my efforts at building a printible tin can
linear stepper. The big problem with making a tin can linear stepper lies in the
rotor. If you go for a one for one match you have to have an aluminum spindle
and coat it with either a polymer or epoxy layer with an admixture of magnetic
media. While this isn't technically a really difficult problem, you then have to
create a special gaussing device to create the alternating magnetic stripes of
opposite polarity on the rotor.
I came up with an alternative design which used thin steel strips and a ring
magnet to simplify this process. There were two problems with my solution.
First, the retail price of the ring magnets was on the order of several dollars.
Second, and more importantly in terms of my annoyance with Chinese suppliers,
was the fact that the Chinese these days pretty much make ALL of the rare earth
magnets in the world. This situation has got to the point that the GPS guided
bombs that the US uses to pound terrorists use Chinese magnets. Finally, I
discovered that the nickle plating that the Chinese put on their rare earth
magnets perishes after a few years leaving you with a really nasty mess where
your magnet used to be.
All this kept me from continuing the effort I'd started to build a linear tin
can stepper. A few days ago, however, I ran across what began to look like a
much more suitable alternative. While, I'd read about variable reluctance
steppers in a variety of stepper references, I hadn't really run across one in
practice. Recently, however, I was nosing around in the Reprap forums "Things to
Print" section, a place that I rarely visit. Back in May, Tim Atwood came up
with aprintable variable
reluctance stepper, although he doesn't quite call it that.
While Tim was aiming at producing a stepper with a very
small step angle, the Tommelise approach needed nothing this complicated. What
really got me moving, however, what this
little project.
The motor you see is a one phase variable reluctance motor. As you can see in the video it is a bit of a pig to get started and keep going. Watching its inventor work with it, however, I was reminded of
an illustration I'd
seen some time ago.
While this design had a 60 degree angle step, I could get it to give me 30
degrees by either half-stepping it or using a cruciform configuration rotor
rather than a simple bar rotor.
Further, if I used the general design of the single phase
variable reluctance project that twigged my imagination, I could reduce the
complexity of the fabrication dramatically.
With all that in mind, I
dug out Rick Hoadley's Excel app for designing electromagnetic coils and had a
go at designing a coil for a first cut at such a stepper out of stuff that I had
at hand.
This was a nice little coil. I got considerably better gauss
ratings than my linear steppers gave me and kept the amperage down to something
managable. The only worry I had was that I was generating 2.91 watts/square inch
of heat to dissipate while Rick suggested that 0.5 was ideal. I had no idea what
"ideal" meant when Rick used the term.
So... I built the coil. The spool for it was made from two nylon sleves
epoxied together.
To give you an idea of scale, that's a piece of 3/8ths
inch threaded rod running through it. I pulled 5.4 and 12.2 volt power off of my
ATX power supply. When I ran it at 12.2 v, it got quite hot within a few
moments. I monitored the coil's surface temperature and shut it down when it
nosed over 100 C.
I then applied 5.4 volt power. At that level the coil stabilised at about
71-72 C, hot, but not outrageously so. Apparently Rick's "ideal" dissipation
rate heats the coil to only a few degrees above ambient.
Rick also mentioned
another little game you could play with your electromagnet. The game was to
see how many steel BBs (4.5 mm copper washed steel pellets used in American air
guns) your electromagnet could pick up. Although Rick didn't mention it, it
struck me that the number of BBs a magnet could pick up may be directly related
to it's gauss rating. I had a go with this.
The only trick to this experiment is that to lift the maximum
number of BBs you have to be very careful. Also, if you lose power before you
get your BBs from the dish to another container things can get a little
messy. In fact, though, I discovered that the pickup power of the electromagnet
related to the gauss level predicted by Rick's Excel sheet such
that...
1 gauss = 1.8 BBs
One end of my electromagnet would pick up 42 grams of BBs at 5.4
v.
I'm quite excited about going forward with my variable reluctance stepper
motor project. Freescale described this class of motor in these
terms.
The reluctance motor, commonly referred to as either a variable or
switch reluctance (VR or SR), offers the simplest, lowest cost motor available
to date. This motor consists of a shaped, highly permeable material for the
rotor and two- or more-phase windings in the stator. The shape of the rotor
concentrates magnetic flux lines into "poles" on the rotor which then interact
with the rotating field being developed in the stator windings. The VR and SR
motors must be electronically controlled to start turning and to produce the
torque needed to continue rotation. Torque pulsations generated by this design
tend to produce undesirable audible noise, leaving much research still to be
performed. The potential for its low-cost application into many areas, however,
makes it an extremely desirable motor to use in a broad range of products.
I also liked Tim's motor. So much so I designed another wire wound motor, winding the wire on the outside of the rotor so that it is easier to assemble. The post in the same "Wire Wound Stepper" thread at:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?88,12556,18654#msg-18654
Thanks for pointing out that I didn't actually explain how it works. I added an explanation combined with wikipedia's description in the post at:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?88,12556,18654#msg-18654
Forrest here is the book that I purchased about Switched Reluctance Motors.
http://search.barnesandnoble.com/Switched-Reluctance-Motor-Drives/Krishnan-Ramu/e/9780849308383/?itm=1
I will be using SRM/G in my master project to generator electricity.
Looks good, but I've got burned on buying expensive technical books about half a dozen times in as many months so I'm going to wait and see what you think of it before I pony up that kind of money. BTW, Amazon is offering a pair of books on variable reluctance motor control that includes your title. The price, however, gives me sticker shock. :-(
Great info, I'm watching this thread with great interest, thanks. I wonder if metglass or black sand and epoxy would be good for a stator material? I forget exactly which magnetic properties make them best for which applications. I seemed to remember that they are able to switch magnetic poles quickly and completely without heating up as much as other materials but I may be wrong about that.
Michael Couch