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Going for an EDM toolheadSunday, August 10. 2008Trackbacks
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Here is a book from Lindsay's Books on how t build an EDM machine. Costs 19.95
http://www.lindsaybks.com/bks9/edm/index.html
It's one of the two I've bought so far. Hasn't arrived yet, though.
I looked into this myself when you first mentioned it. It does become somewhat messy though, with the need for either refreshed or constantly flowing dielectric fluid. No worse than, say, Fernando's research into liquid calalyst "tank" systems.
I take it you looked at homemade wire EDM "drills" then. This would almost work but there's no real depth control as the wire erodes, although I've seen notes that this CAN be realistically calculated but not the equations for doing so. It would definitely be worth it for making size controlled acorn nozzles, but we'd need a high step count threaded rod positioner for the small, slow movements. We're talking inches per HOUR of movement after all.
The Home EDM chat group says that the Fleming system burns about 1.5 mm^3/min. I think that the resolution of the positioning system is probably dependent on the distance which the system is able to throw an arc. Looking at Fleming's design he is using a tin-can stepper and a fine threaded rod of some sort to control the sink rate. Tin can steppers rarely have a step size of less than 7.5 degrees and it is very hard to get a thread pitch at any reasonable diameter of less than about 1 mm/turn. These little Haydon 26000's that I have can do 0.05 mm/step. If I really push I can get them to half step. Easier would be to just buy another one with a shorter step distance.
I keep track of the homebrew EDM group as well. Ben does not use a tin can stepper. The design calls for a geared down motor or a trim tab server. A controller monitors the voltage across the electrode. If it gets too low, the bit is retracted and too high the bit is lowered.
Why not do electrochemical machining instead(ECM), it's much simpler than EDM. It also doesn't require the machining tip to be replaced as often.
http://www.eod.gvsu.edu/eod/manufact/manufact-281.html
http://www.indoor.flyer.co.uk/ecm.htm
A 24 gauge blunt tip stainless steel dispensing needle coated with high temperature lacquer up to just the tip should make a good machining head. You could use a smaller diameter needle for better accuracy, but smaller diameter needles tend to require higher pressures to push water through them(~20-50 psi).
http://www.zeph.com/applicator_tips.htm
Couple of reasons. First is there doesn't seem to be a lot of information on DIY ECM out there. Second is that it seems to be a real pig, insofar as energy usage (3 kwhr/in^3 - http://www.eod.gvsu.edu/eod/manufact/manufact-281.html).
Three kWhr/in^3 is actually affordable. When machining iron, with a density of 7,870 kg/m^3 (7.87 g/cm^3):
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http://hypertextbook.com/physics/matter/density/
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that works out to: 3 kWhr/in^3 / (2.54cm/in)^3 / 7.87g/cm^3 * 1,000g/kg =~ 23 kWhr/kg
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At a high electricity price of 0.3$/kWhr, that works out to: 0.3$/kWhr * 23 kWhr/kg =~ 7$/kg
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7$/kg is in the ballpark of plastic filament, assuming that you remove a similar amount of metal as you keep, which would be the case for a sphere for instance.
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